Okay, besties, gather 'round! I gotta tell you about something that's completely transformed my skincare routine: reverse skin cycling. You know I'm all about finding ways to get that gorgeous glow without irritating my easily upset skin, and this… this is it.
What Even IS Reverse Skin Cycling?
Right, so you've probably heard of regular skin cycling, where you alternate between exfoliating, using retinoids, and then having recovery nights. Reverse skin cycling flips that on its head. Instead of diving straight into the actives, you start with recovery and focus on soothing and repairing your skin barrier before introducing anything potentially irritating.
Think of it like this: you're prepping your skin for a marathon instead of just throwing it into the race. It's especially amazing for those of us with sensitive skin or if you're just starting to experiment with powerful ingredients like retinol or AHAs/BHAs.
Why I Made the Switch
Honestly, I was getting so frustrated. I'd try to incorporate retinol into my routine (because, hello, anti-ageing!), but my skin would react with redness, dryness, and just general unhappiness. I'd heard whispers of reverse skin cycling and thought, "What do I have to lose?"
I was already a big fan of focusing on skin barrier repair (thanks to a few too many harsh cleansers in my younger years – we all make mistakes!). I figured, let's amp up the soothing and then see if my skin can handle the actives.
My Reverse Skin Cycling Routine
So, here's exactly what I've been doing:
Nights 1 & 2: Recovery, Recovery, Recovery!
These nights are all about hydration and calming inflammation. I double cleanse with something super gentle. My current favourite is the CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser. It's so simple, but it really gets the job done without stripping my skin.
Then, I slather on a hydrating serum. I’ve been loving the La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 Hyaluronic Acid Serum. It's like a big drink of water for my skin. Followed by a rich, soothing moisturiser. I'm obsessed with the Avène Tolérance Control Soothing Skin Recovery Cream. It’s fragrance-free and feels like a hug for my face. Sometimes, if my skin feels particularly dry, I'll add a thin layer of Aquaphor Healing Ointment as an occlusive. This locks in all the moisture and helps repair the skin barrier overnight. Trust me on this!
On these nights I also skip any other actives, including vitamin C. I want to give my skin a complete break. And you know what? It feels amazing!
Night 3: Gentle Exfoliation
Okay, time for a gentle exfoliation. This is where I buff away dead skin cells to reveal brighter, smoother skin underneath, ready to better absorb my active products. Emphasis on the gentle! I'm not talking about harsh scrubs here. I use a chemical exfoliant, but a super mild one.
I like the Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant, but I don't use it directly on my face. Instead, I apply a little to a damp cotton pad and gently swipe it over my skin, avoiding the eye area.
If even that feels too strong, try a konjac sponge! It's a super soft and natural way to lightly exfoliate.
Night 4: Retinoid Night
This is the night I’ve been building up to! I use a pea-sized amount of retinol. I’m currently using The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion. It's a good starting point, because it's less irritating than some of the stronger retinols.
Important tip: Apply your retinol after your moisturiser. This creates a buffer and minimises irritation. It's a technique I picked up after a particularly bad retinol reaction a few years ago, and it's been a lifesaver!
I've also heard amazing things about the sandwich method which is applying moisturiser, then retinol, then more moisturiser.
Repeat!
And then I just repeat the cycle. Recovery, recovery, exfoliate, retinoid, repeat.
The Results? Amazing!
Honestly, the difference has been incredible. My skin is noticeably smoother, brighter, and less prone to breakouts. And the best part? No more angry red patches or flaky skin from the retinol! I can finally use retinol without the dreaded retinol irritation.
My skin barrier feels so much stronger, and it’s much better equipped to handle the active ingredients. It's also helped calm down some stubborn redness that I've been battling for ages.
It's also made me realise how important those recovery nights really are. We often get so caught up in using all the actives that we forget to give our skin a break. My skin genuinely loves those nights of pure hydration and TLC.
My Top Tips for Reverse Skin Cycling
* Start slow: Don't jump straight into daily exfoliation or strong retinoids. Gradually introduce actives and increase the frequency as your skin tolerates it.
* Listen to your skin: If your skin feels irritated, scale back on the actives and focus on recovery. There’s no shame in taking a break.
* Hydration is key: Make sure you're using a good hydrating serum and moisturiser, especially on recovery nights.
* Sunscreen, sunscreen, sunscreen! This is non-negotiable, especially when using actives like retinol and AHAs/BHAs. Protect your skin from sun damage!
* Patch test: Always patch test new products before applying them to your entire face.
* Don't over-exfoliate: Over-exfoliating can damage your skin barrier, which is the opposite of what we're trying to achieve. Stick to gentle exfoliation once a week.
* Be patient: It takes time to see results. Don't get discouraged if you don't see a difference overnight. Stick with it, and you'll eventually see the benefits.
Final Thoughts
Reverse skin cycling has been a lifesaver for my sensitive skin, and I genuinely think it could help others who struggle with irritation from actives. It’s all about listening to your skin and giving it what it needs.
If you’re looking for a way to incorporate retinol or AHAs/BHAs into your routine without the dreaded side effects, I highly recommend giving reverse skin cycling a try. Let me know in the comments if you do!
And remember, taking care of your skin is a journey, not a race. Be kind to yourself, and enjoy the process.
Oh, and if you are interested in other things I have tried, check out my honest thoughts on Reverse Hair Washing? My Honest Thoughts!, or maybe you want to check out Moisturiser Before Cleanser?! My Skin LOVES It!. You might also like to read up on Healthy Scalp, Happy Hair – It's That Simple!.
Happy skin cycling, my loves!
Love,
Emma x